THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO MEN’S HAIR STYLING

While women's hair trends come and go in the blink of an eye, it can be easy for men to get stuck in a rut.

"Men can get very used to going into a barber's and saying 'Just the usual, please,'" says Hayley Kemm, barber at Paul Edmonds London.

"If they're not being offered anything more than 'the usual', they think there's nothing else they can do with their hair. But there is - if they allow somebody who has the knowledge to teach them what to do."

As an Oway ambassador and educator, Hayley is second to none when it comes to advising gents on how to style their hair without looking overly groomed.

"Generally speaking, guys never really want their hair to look too immaculate, unless it's really short and sharp around the hairline," Hayley says.

"If they've got longer hair or if it's mid-length or swept back then they usually want more of a messy look."

 

Here, she talks through her essential tips for men's hair, from getting the perfect cut and growing long locks to choosing the right products and styling at home…

Ask your hairdresser for a debulking cut

"There's a bit of a confusion where guys will come in for a cut and say 'Can you take the weight out of it?'" Hayley says, but they don't want to lose the texture or length of their hair.

"I find that a lot with guys who have a little bit longer hair, they want volume in it without their hair being weighed down."

In that case, it's better to ask your stylist to 'debulk' the hair, which means removing some of the weight without trimming a great deal.

"There are different techniques," Hayley explains. "In hairdressing terms we call it club cutting, which creates a straight line, then we chop into it or we slice it out and that removes the weight through the hair."

Choose your products carefully

It may sound counterintuitive, but squeaky-clean hair doesn't always look the best.

"Correct product advice is key, the right product will give a lived in look without it looking greasy or dirty. In reference to the bungee fiber this would give it a dirty look but to avoid using the word dirty and instead replace with 'lived in' and prevents it looking fly away." Hayley says.

Her go-to for post-wash styling is the Oway Bungee Fiber: "A very versatile product that can be used in wet or dry hair to slick the hair back, twist the hair or mess it up."

For a quick refresh the next day, add a spritz of Oway Styling & Finish Sea Salt Spray, she suggests: "A really light product that adds texture to the hair. It can be used on curly, wavy, straight, short or long hair."

How to grow out short hair

"I get a lot of guys who want to grow their hair out into a mid-length," Hayley says. 

"That transition period is always really hard when they're growing their hair out because they don't know how to style it."

She advises resisting the urge to have the hair around your neck and ears trimmed: "When it reaches a certain length you can start pushing it all back. This is where products come in handy."

For best results, apply a styling cream when hair is wet then blow dry or allow to air dry: "Wash your hair, put in Oway Boho Pomade or Bungee Fiber and brush your hair back, then you're starting to train your hair to go in that direction."

How to enhance your curls

A tailored approach is essential for creating your ideal curly-haired look, so talk to your hairdresser about the best options for your curl pattern and hair type.

"It depends on the type of curl," Hayley says. "You could do twists, you could dry it with a diffuser, you could let it air dry or hood dry, you can do-rag it… there are so many different choices."

A curl lotion is a great all-rounder, she says: "I use Curly Potion by Oway to create coils and twists. You need to make sure you're getting the right amount of product – just one pump – to stop the hair going crispy."

The Urban Moisture shampoo and conditioner from Shu Uemura will help keep curls hydrated, as will a spritz of water every morning: "Curls can dry out, so they just need that little refresh to get that moisture back in."

Excess blow-drying and style with care

"Guys tell me all the time, 'My girlfriend says I shouldn't blow dry my hair, she said it's bad for my hair,' but  this shouldn't cause any damage, if a client has  colour, a heat protector can be used. An example of a product for this is Kérastase Nutritive Lotion Thermique Sublimatrice." Hayley says.

However, excessive blow-drying can cause damage, particularly if your hair is long or colour treated hair, which is why you should apply a heat protection spray such as Kérastase Lotion Thermique first.

Some men also make the mistake of thinking hair spray is the answer for keeping hair tamed and in place – for instance with a quiff – but you'll get much better results from blow drying.

"It's like building the foundations of a house, using scaffolding to keep it up," Hayley explains.

"Mousse or sea salt spray is really good to use when blow drying. It creates a really nice hold but isn't tacky. Aim the nozzle in the same direction as the hair as you brush it – that's going to create the look you want."

Try a treatment

 

"I see quite a lot of men with flakiness on their scalp, which may be dandruff or the skin condition psoriasis," Hayley says. "Psoriasis can come from different things like weather, central heating and changes in the elements."

Our experts can advise whether you should see a doctor, there are steps we can cover including using our salon digital magnifier to do a scalp analysis.

"I tend to do the soothing hair bath from Oway, which has got healing properties for flaky scalp," Hayley says.

So now you know how easy it is to make the most of your crowning glory by starting with the perfect cut selecting the right products for your needs and giving your hair some TLC at home.

Why not add a hair-enhancing sea salt spray, pomade or curl cream to your grooming routine?

Check out our full range of Oway products in salon at Paul Edmonds London or on the website.