Why blonde hair turns brassy after summer & how to prevent it

Holidays and hot weather can leave blonde tones looking yellow.

Have you noticed how your usually vibrant blonde can end up with an orange or yellowish tinge by the end of the summer? Whether you’ve been staycationing at home (and who wouldn’t, after the gloriously warm weather we’ve had?) or holidaying abroad, the elements can have a big impact on blonde tones. Here, creative director Charlotte Lewis explains why brassiness occurs during the sunniest season and what you can do about it.

WHY DOES BLONDE HAIR TURN BRASSY?

“Brassiness tends to happen if someone's hair is naturally a warmer colour. If there are warmer pigments in the natural hair, when you’re lightening the hair, you're neutralising that warmth with a toner, then because that toner is washing off much faster due to swimming pool or sea water, or the sun is lifting the toner out, you can end up with a brassy result sooner than you would during other times of the year.

“People tend to wash their hair more frequently when they're on holiday, which is necessary to wash the chlorine or saltwater out, and they might blow dry or style it every night if they’re going out for the evening, so that can also contribute towards the toner fading.

“You might notice yellow or orange tones on the hairline, because people often have their hair coloured to be a bit lighter around the hairline, but it's also because if people on holiday are wearing their hair back, that is where the sun will hit on the hairline. Balayage blonde could also turn brassy more quickly because colourists usually tend to create warmer results than they would with a foiling technique or scalp bleach.”

DOES CHLORINE MAKE BLONDE HAIR BRASSY?

“Chlorinated water is a massive factor that can alter the colour of blonde hair, particularly when it's the much lighter shades. As well as stripping hair oils, opening the cuticle and washing out toner to reveal yellow or orange tones, you could even end up with tints of green. I'm sure many blondes have experienced this at some point if they’ve spent a lot of time swimming.

“To prevent chlorine from impacting your blonde colour, make sure to wet your hair down before you go swimming and apply an oil or serum like Shu Uemura Essence Absolue or Kérastase Blond Guard. It acts as a barrier on the hair shaft, helping to prevent or lessen pigment loss.”

 

CAN HARD WATER MAKE BLONDE HAIR YELLOW?

“Hard water can cause yellowness as well. The reason that happens is hard water contains certain minerals like calcium, magnesium and copper that can deposit on the hair and oxidise, leaving yellow or orange tones over time.

“If you're in a different country and notice more brassiness than usual, it could be due to the hard water. A clarifying shampoo can help, or Iles Formula Hard Water shampoo is specifically designed to remove mineral build-up and prevent dullness.”

CAN PURPLE SHAMPOO FIX BRASSY HAIR?

“Yes, purple shampoo can help to reduce the appearance of brassy tones by depositing purple pigment, which is the opposite of yellow on the colour wheel. Shu Uemura has the Yubi Blonde Shampoo and Kérastase has the Blond Absolu Ultra Violet mask which are great for neutralizing – the pigment is quite strong – and the Oway Blondeway range is another good option.”

 

WHAT’S THE BEST TREATMENT FOR BLONDE HAIR AFTER SUMMER?

“The best way to repair and refresh blonde hair after summer is with a salon treatment that adds protein and moisture like Ultimate Protein Repair or SAM (Strengthening Acidic Moisture). For addressing brassiness specifically, an express treatment that combines base and booster shots can be really effective. From Kérastase Fusio Dose you could combine Blond Absolu and Cicablond, or from Davines Naturaltech you could choose the Radiance and Blonde Brightening shots.”

HOW OFTEN SHOULD BLONDES TONE THEIR HAIR?

“Usually, we recommend blondes have their colour done around every eight weeks, but if you’ve got brassy hair after a holiday and if you’re still a few weeks away from your usual colour appointment, you might want to come into the salon to have your toner refreshed. I love Redken toners, because not only do they tone, they also add a lot of gloss and shine, which helps to make the hair look less dry.”

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Q: Why does blonde hair turn brassy?

A: Blonde hair often turns brassy because the toner used to neutralise warm yellow and orange pigments gradually fades. Summer sun, chlorine, seawater and frequent washing all speed up this process, revealing the underlying warm tones.

Q: How does hard water affect blonde hair?

A: Hard water contains minerals such as calcium, magnesium and copper that can build up on blonde hair over time. These particles oxidise, leaving yellow or orange tones and making hair look duller or brassier than usual. A clarifying or hard water shampoo can help remove the build-up and restore brightness.

Q: How can you prevent blonde hair going brassy in summer?

A: If you’re going swimming, wet your hair with fresh water first, then apply a protective oil or serum to create a barrier against chlorine and saltwater. Washing your hair after swimming, using a purple shampoo or masque once or twice a week, and protecting it from prolonged sun exposure will also help the toner last longer.

Q: Can salon treatments fix brassy hair?

A: Yes. If your blonde has turned brassy, a toner refresh is usually the quickest way to restore a cooler, brighter shade in between colour appointments. Your colourist may also recommend an express treatment, such as a customised combination of Kérastase Fusio-Dose or Davines Naturaltech base and booster shots, or an intensive protein treatment.

 

From brassy to bright

It’s common for even the brightest blondes to succumb to the effects of holidays and heatwaves, washing away toner and leaving your strands with an unwanted yellow or orange tinge as the end of summer approaches.

But it is possible to prevent and fix brassiness with a combination of home haircare and salon treatments. Stock up on protective serums and purple shampoos to minimise colour fade, then pop into the salon for a toner top-up or nourishing treatment to restore your bright blonde hue.

Feeling the fade this summer? Book a colour refresh at Paul Edmonds London.

FURTHER READING