The backwash effect: Why masks and treatments are key for hair health
A concentrated formula helps your strands soak up nourishment.
A common misconception about hair masks is that they’re virtually the same as conditioner except you leave the product on for longer. The truth is, while most conditioners simply treat the surface of the hair, masks and treatments are more concentrated formulas that deliver nourishing ingredients – like hyaluronic acid, oils and strengthening proteins – deep into the strand to support hair health, prevent breakage and protect your colour.
While other salons charge for all treatments, as part of Paul Edmonds London’s commitment to hair health, we offer every client a complimentary conditioning mask at the backwash. “We leave the mask on for a few minutes so the hair can absorb what it needs from the product,” says senior stylist Teagan Selvey. “And there are so many different things we can do to remedy hair issues. Some people have dry hair and want more shine, or it might be damaged from colouring, or they might have scalp issues as well – it’s about finding the right treatment for them.”
We also have two additional types of backwash treatments that clients can book separately, express and luxury, so whether your strands need a quick shot of hydration from a mask (or masque, which is the French spelling commonly used by haircare brands) or some heavy-duty damage repair, there’s an option for everyone.
Here, Teagan describes how she assesses hair needs, explains the three treatment levels and runs down her recommendations for at-home masks to complement salon treatments…
The best hair masks for dry hair:
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT HAIR MASK OR TREATMENT
Every cut or colour service appointment at Paul Edmonds London starts with a consultation, where your stylist or colourist will assess your hair's condition and discuss your current needs and goals.
“I always ask clients, ‘How's your hair and scalp been?’ while I'm sectioning and combing the hair and looking through it to see if I notice anything obvious, such as inflammation or if the scalp is dry or flaky,” Teagan says. “Often people come in saying, ‘My hair's feeling really dry,’ or ‘My scalp's oily but also flaky.”
Once you’re at the backwash, your hairdresser will also observe your hair when it’s wet. “That’s because the elasticity of the hair will change when it's wet compared to when it's dry. We’ve got to check the porosity, and a lot of times the client’s colour will decide what treatments we use.”
Depending on how damaged the hair is will also determine the intensity of the treatment. “If a client wants something that will help them now and last a few washes, then we do an instant treatment, or we can book them in for a more intensive treatment at a later date, as that will take longer.”
The best hair masks for damaged hair:
CONDITIONING MASKS: THE INSTANT HYDRATION HIT
At Paul Edmonds, our complimentary conditioning masks are applied following two shampoos (the first to remove build-up, the second to cleanse the scalp) and instead of conditioner. The mask will be chosen from the wide range of luxury products we stock for different hair types, from dehydrated or damaged to curly or coloured.
“The mask we use and how we apply it will depend on the client and their needs,” Teagan says. “For example, they may have dry hair with an oily scalp, so we wouldn’t put a really heavy hydrating mask all over, only on the mid-lengths and ends.” And if the scalp needs attention, Oway has a trio of masks targeting dandruff, dermatitis, and psoriasis.
While the mask is working its magic, the client can enjoy a head massage (or simply lie back and relax), then five minutes later you’re ready to rinse. “Curly hair tends to be a bit drier, so we might leave the mask on longer, for about 10 minutes, and if clients want to use a conditioning mask as treatment at home, they can sleep in it and rinse it out the next day.”
The best hair masks for scalp health:
EXPRESS TREATMENTS: THE BASE & BOOSTER SHOTS
Level one on the Paul Edmonds London treatment menu is express treatments from two ranges: Kérastase Fusio Dose or Davines Naturaltech. Two fast-acting ‘shots’ are cocktailed together according to the client's top two hair concerns.
“You do two shampoos, then you mix the two shots – one base and one booster – and leave them on for five minutes, before finishing with conditioner,” Teagan explains. “With Davines Naturaltech the Serum Bases are Volume, Moisture, Radiance and Strength, and the Botanical Boosters are Volumizing, Hydrating, Illuminating, Fortifying, Controlling, and Blonde Brightening.”
Kérastase Fusio Dose offers six bases (Nutritive for dry hair, Chroma Absolu for coloured hair, Genesis for thinning hair, Resistance for weak or damaged hair, Curl Manifesto for curly hair, and Blond Absolu for blondes) and five boosters (Nutrition, Reconstruction, Brilliance, Anti-Frizz and Cicablond for lightened or coloured hair).
The best hair masks for coloured hair:
LUXURY TREATMENTS: THE INTENSIVE OPTION
When hair requires more than just a conditioning mask or double shot duo, we have a menu of intensive treatments that can rebuild damaged strands, inject moisture, and deliver incredible shine.
For hair that lacks hydration, the Collagen Infusion Treatment is a game-changer, Teagan says. “As normal, we shampoo twice, then bring the client back to the chair and apply the collagen serum on wet hair. Next, we put a plastic cap over the hair, and they sit under a rollerball heater for about 20 minutes to let it develop.”
The Ultimate Protein Repair treatment works wonders on hair that’s been weakened by heat styling, bleaching or colouring. After the two-step formula is applied, it’s left to dry and solidify, then washed rinse, while the SAM (Strengthening Acidic Moisture) treatment combines hydration and protein, which is important when concentrated formulas are involved, Teagan says. “Sometimes people are using protein products at home like Olaplex or K18, but if you over-protein your hair, it can go brittle and snap. It’s best to alternate with a moisturising mask or treatment.”
Most Paul Edmonds London luxury treatments take around an hour and last up to six weeks, but PE Signature Smooth takes two to four hours to apply. “It’s a keratin treatment that will reduce frizz and give a really shiny finish, and it lasts up to 16 weeks.” Whichever treatment you choose, the more you take care of your hair at home and prevent damage, the longer it will stay looking glossy, healthy and strong.
The best hair masks for curly hair:
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Q: What is the difference between a hair mask and a professional treatment?
A: A mask conditions the hair, while a professional treatment is prescribed to address a specific concern such as breakage, dehydration, colour longevity or scalp health.
Q: Are conditioning masks included at Paul Edmonds London?
A: Yes. Where appropriate, conditioning masques are incorporated into appointments as part of the salon's commitment to maintaining healthy hair, rather than being treated as an optional extra.
Q: Why do stylists recommend different product brands?
A: Every luxury brand offers different technologies and benefits. Our stylists prescribe products based on your hair's needs rather than recommending a single range for every client.
Q: How often should I have a professional hair treatment?
A: This depends on your hair type and condition, but regular treatments alongside a personalised homecare routine help maintain strength, moisture and shine.
Get your hair prescription at Paul Edmonds London
Think of a hairdresser like a pharmacist for your hair: when your strands or scalp are struggling, they can prescribe an effective treatment to bring them back to full health.
The Paul Edmonds team can help you find the best option for your hair, from quick conditioning masks and express two-shot cocktails to concentrated luxury treatments.
Discover our full menu or hair and scalp treatments at Paul Edmonds London.
