If the arrival of autumn has got you in the mood for a colour change – and as we previously discussed, now’s the perfect time – you may be wondering: how can I keep my hair looking as vibrant as the day I left the salon? “Colour fades for all sorts of reasons,” says Steven Kamara, senior colourist at Paul Edmonds London. “It could be using the wrong shampoo or over-washing your hair. Heat from tongs or straighteners is a massive factor too.” But there are lots of ways to preserve the intensity of your trendy copper or golden blonde shade for longer. Here, our colourists explain why hair fades or goes brassy and how to maintain your colour.
WHY DOES COLOURED HAIR FADE OVER TIME?
Sonia Surani, senior colourist: “When we colour hair, the chemicals open the hair cuticle so that the pigment can be deposited, and that means the colour will gradually fade over time as the pigment seeps out. Even more so if we’re lightening hair, whether that’s balayage, highlights, or scalp bleach, because bleach opens the cuticle and removes the pigment inside, making the hair more porous. When blondes go brassy or dull, it’s the toner that we put on after the bleach gradually fading.”
Steven: “If you've got very damaged hair, it's going to fade quicker. If you're brunette and you're staying on the brunette spectrum with your colour and only going a level or two lighter or darker, the colour will hold well, whereas if you're going from one extreme to the other, you're going to notice the fade a lot more, like with coppers or reds.”
HOW CAN WASHING HABITS INFLUENCE COLOURED HAIR?
Steven: “If you're somebody who goes to the gym a lot or does a lot of sport and washes your hair every day, water opens the hair cuticle, so the colour is going to fade a lot faster than for somebody who washes their hair once or twice a week.”
HOW CAN WATER QUALITY AND MINERAL BUILD-UP AFFECT HAIR COLOUR AND SHINE?
Sonia: “The more metal and mineral particles you have in your hair from hard water build-up, the quicker it's going to go brassy or fade, because the colour can’t penetrate as effectively. The L’Oreal Metal Detox treatment will help remove the build-up, as will products with chelating ingredients like Oribe The Cleanse Clarifying Shampoo or L'Oréal Professionnel Série Expert Metal Detox Shampoo.”
HOW DOES HEAT STYLING IMPACT HAIR COLOUR?
Sonia: “Heat is another factor that opens the hair cuticle. When you're using heat repeatedly, it's almost like leaving the door open so the colour will fade more easily. Reducing the temperature, if possible, and using heat protection are really important. Heat protection seals the cuticle, so the ‘door’ is still slightly open but not as much. Shu Uemura Color Luster Sealer Spray is great, and all of Oribe's products have heat protection in them. If I'm blow drying then heat styling a client’s hair, I’ll start with Oribe Invisible Defence Universal Spray on wet hair, then follow with the Dry Texturizing Spray before I straighten or use curling tongs, to give double protection without adding unwanted moisture.”
WHY DO THE RIGHT SHAMPOO, CONDITIONER AND TREATMENT MATTER?
Sonia: “Colour shampoos are more gentle than other shampoos, so they won’t open the hair cuticle as much. Pigmented shampoos also really help to maintain your colour. Brunette hair can turn brassy, so a blue or green shampoo can neutralise those red or orange tones, and if you're blonde, purple helps to neutralise yellow. Conditioners and leave-in treatments help to keep the hair cuticle closed as much as possible so the pigment is less likely to seep out.”
HOW DO COLOURISTS PRESCRIBE PRODUCTS BASED ON THE COLOUR AND CONDITION OF AN INDIVIDUAL’S HAIR?
Steven: “It's about assessing the hair in the consultation and talking to the client about their hair and lifestyle. For example, if they’ve previously had highlights and want to go for a darker colour, it might take a few sessions to build up that colour so that it doesn’t fade. We recommend products that will enhance the colour and condition.”
HOW DO GLOSS OR TONER APPOINTMENTS HELP IN BETWEEN COLOUR SERVICES?
Steven: “It's really important for clients to come back into the salon for a gloss treatment when their colour starts to fade, usually after about six weeks. We’ve got clear gloss, which is for somebody who purely wants shine, and we’ve got coloured glosses for when you’re not quite ready to have your roots, balayage or tint redone, but you want to refresh the colour or add a bit more warmth or brightness. We bespoke them to the client, so they can be literally any colour, and only take about 20 minutes to develop.”
HOW CAN PROFESSIONAL IN-SALON TREATMENTS SUPPORT SHINE AND HAIR CONDITION BETWEEN COLOUR TRANSFORMATIONS?
Steven: “I always recommend prepping the hair before a colour service with the K18 bond-building treatment, which is going to help lock in the colour. L’Oreal Metal Detox treatment is great for removing build-up and impurities, and we also have the Metal Detox shampoo and mask to follow on with at home.”
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE HAIRCARE PRODUCTS FOR COLOURED HAIR?
Sonia: “I always recommend a moisturising shampoo formulated for coloured hair like Shu Uemura Color Luster, Oribe Beautiful Color or Kevin Murphy Everlasting.Colour. Rinse-out treatments and leave-in serums are also great for hydrating and preventing fade.”
Steven: “Davines has a range of pigmented shampoos and conditioners that are really great for keeping coloured hair looking vibrant. They've got some nice red, copper and chocolate shades. I would recommend using them once a week instead of your usual shampoo or conditioner, unless you’re on holiday. If you’re washing your hair a lot more and it’s exposed to the sun, it can be more prone to fading.”
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Q: What causes hair colour to fade quickly?
A: Frequent washing, heat styling, damaged hair and mineral build-up from hard water can all accelerate colour fade. Lightened hair is often more porous, making it harder to retain pigment, while vibrant shades such as copper and red tend to show fading more noticeably.
Q: Does heat styling make hair colour fade?
A: Yes. Repeated heat styling can compromise the hair cuticle, making it easier for pigment to escape. Reducing the use of straighteners and curling tongs, lowering the temperature where possible, and always using a heat protection product can help preserve colour and shine.
Q: Can a salon gloss refresh faded hair colour?
A: Absolutely. A gloss can restore vibrancy and add shine in between main colour appointments. At Paul Edmonds London, bespoke pigmented gloss treatments can refresh your shade or introduce warmth, while a clear gloss boosts shine. A gloss takes up to 20 minutes to develop and lasts around six weeks.
Q: What is the best haircare routine for coloured hair?
A: Use a gentle, colour protection shampoo and conditioner, wash only as often as necessary and incorporate a pigmented shampoo when needed to counteract unwanted tones. Purple shampoo helps neutralise yellow in blonde hair, while blue or green formulas can balance unwanted warmth in brunette shades. Heat protection and salon treatments that reduce mineral and metal build-up can also help maintain colour and shine.
Shield your shade
Wherever you are on the shade spectrum, from bright blonde to rich red or deepest brunette, there are lots of factors that influence how your colour evolves, and ways to stop it fading quite so fast.
Keeping your hair in optimal condition with pre-colour treatments and nourishing products will keep colour locked in, while topping up with pigmented masks and gloss treatments will add a much-needed injection of vibrancy and shine.
Our team always deliver glossy, long-lasting colour looks. Book your next appointment at Paul Edmonds London.
FURTHER READING
