Frizzy hair FAQ: 4 common myths debunked and solutions for defrizzing
Everyone gets frizzy hair from time to time.
Everyone gets frizzy hair from time to time.
For some people, their formerly smooth strands fluff up as soon as they step outside. For others, harsh colour treatments or frequent heat styling can lead to frazzled tresses.
What causes your locks to take on that telltale wiry feel? Essentially, it’s due to the structure of the hair cuticle, which is made up of overlapping scales.
“Frizzy hair is hair that puffs up because the cuticle, the outer layer of the strand, is not sitting smooth and flat,” says Lamia Diani, creative director at Paul Edmonds London. “It gets fluffy and dry and doesn't look shiny.”
Curly or coarse hair has a more open cuticle structure, meaning it’s more prone to moisture absorption and frizz, while fine hair may become frizzy due to a lack of weight to keep it smooth.
It may be obvious when your hair is reaching candy floss-like levels of fuzziness, but there are many misunderstandings when it comes to why frizzy hair occurs and what you can do about it.
Here, the team discuss four common myths and reveal their expert tips for tackling frizzy hair…
MYTH 1: Only curly hair gets frizzy
You might think people with thick, straight strands won’t succumb to the frizz factor, but that’s not true.
“No matter what your hair type, if it’s been overprocessed with colour or straightened too much it can become frizzy,” Lamia says. That’s because heat and chemicals damage the cuticle structure, so the hair becomes more porous and can’t retain moisture.
However, she points out that curly hair tends to be more on the drier side due to its naturally open cuticle structure, meaning frizz is genetic: “I always say to my clients, if you've got naturally curly hair you have to think about moisture all the time. If you maintain the moisture that helps tame the frizz.”
MYTH 2: Frizz is caused by winter weather
Many people find their hair gets more wiry and unruly in winter. That’s because cold air generally contains less moisture than warm air so hair becomes crispy. However, hot air can have a similar effect.
“Humidity can cause fine hair to swell up, but that can happen in summer or because you’ve gone to the gym,” Lamia explains. “Dry air can also cause frizz, for example, at the beach or even in homes with central heating.”
Hair porosity is another major cause of fluffy flyaway locks, meaning the ability to absorb and retain moisture, with medium porosity being optimal.
“The more frizzy someone's hair is the more porous we would consider it,” says colour technician Sonia Surani, who always aims to reduce frizziness when colouring her clients hair by mixing a bond-building treatment such as Olaplex or Innoluxe with the colour.
“And a big problem in London is hard water, where the pH of the water is alkaline. When you've got really porous frizzy hair, that means that your hair is sitting more alkaline, so it should be treated with acidic hair products to bring it back to neutral.”
MYTH 3: Oils or serums will banish frizz
“If you want to get rid of frizz you can’t just focus on one product,” Lamia says. Some oils or serums can be a quick fix to add smoothness and shine, but they won’t treat the underlying cause, which is why you should always choose high-quality formulations.
The best hair oils contain lipids, water-repelling molecules that create a protective barrier on the hair shaft, locking in moisture, smoothing the cuticle and maintaining keratin, one of the essential building blocks of hair.
“I love the Essence Absolue Overnight Serum by Shu Uemura. I use three pumps every night on my mid-lengths and ends,” Lamia continues.
“The original Essence Absolue oil is also amazing. It doesn't just sit on the hair, it absorbs quickly and treats your hair. I can use it twice a day because I have thick hair, but if your hair is finer I recommend just a little drop on the mid-lengths and ends.”
MYTH 4: Frizziness is a sign of unhealthy hair
Just because your hair is going through a frizzy phase doesn’t mean it’s unhealthy or damaged beyond repair.
“It's just a hair type, but when people don't know how to maintain it they really struggle with it,” Lamia says.
“Here in the salon we offer so many treatments that support different hair types, plus we can advise on great home care and good hair habits.”
Expert solutions for frizzy hair
So what can you do to defrizz your hair? The key to getting the hair cuticle to lay flat is hydration.
“Once the condition is better the hair's smoother and shinier,” says Lamia, who is a big fan of the Urban Moisture and Silk Bloom ranges from Shu Uemura, and recommends a mask instead of conditioner to treat frizz if you’ve got curly or thick hair.
“A thicker strand of hair needs a heavier product,” she explains. “Start by shampooing your hair then gently squeezing it dry with a microfiber towel. Run the mask through your hair and use a Tangle Teaser to gently detangle the hair before rinsing.”
For a more intense approach to frizz-fighting, a salon treatment is your best bet, Lamia says: “With frizzy hair, your cuticles are raised and your hair inside is exposed to external aggressors so you can easily damage your hair more. Treatments are really great at creating a protective layer on that hair.”
Sonia recommends the three-step Redken SAM (Strengthening Acidic Moisture) treatment with or after a colour service: “The acidic repairing concentrate brings down the pH level and closes the hair cuticle so it seals the colour, moisture and protein back in, helping to smooth everything out and defrizz the hair.”
For the ultimate in hair repair, it doesn’t get better than the Paul Edmonds Signature Smooth Treatment, which uses a nanotechnology smoother and takes two to four hours, with the effects lasting three to four months.
“A lot of our clients love it because they don't lose their thickness and volume but they get the anti-frizz effect and the shine,” Lamia says. “I personally like my clients to alternate between the Signature Smooth treatment and the SAM or collagen treatment.”
Paul Edmonds salon treatment list
And finally, if you’re determined to avoid frizz in future it’s best to keep heat styling to a minimum.
“Avoid straighteners as much as you can and apply Kérastase Resistance Ciment Thermique before blow drying,” Lamia says.
“Follow with Oribe Imperméable Anti Humidity Spray, which is super lightweight and easy to work with, then if it's really damp outside I like to coat the hair with Shu Uemura Kumo Hold hair spray. It doesn't make the hair sticky or stiff.”
Say farewell to frizz
Now you know what causes frizzy hair, why it’s more common in winter and why simply slathering on a serum or oil won’t solve the problem.
It takes a holistic approach to fight the frizz, but by identifying your hair type, using the right home haircare products and having a targeted salon treatment you can go from fluffy and tangled to smooth and silky in no time.
Has winter weather caused a frizz overload? Book an ultra-hydrating Signature Smooth treatment at Paul Edmonds London.
