Beauty ingredients guide: The good, the bad and what to avoid

Not all beauty products are created equal.

From shampoos to skincare serums, formulations vary massively, and with long ingredient lists (usually in a seriously tiny font) it can be hard to know if a certain element is doing more harm than good to your hair or skin.

You may have heard a lot about ‘clean’ beauty products recently, but there’s no official definition of what clean means. 

Same goes for ‘natural’ products. A brand could add a ‘naturally derived’ label on a bottle but the formula might still contain a proportion of synthetic chemicals.

Plus, we all have different hair and skin needs, so while someone else might have an adverse reaction to a cleansing or styling product, you might not.

Your best bet is to educate yourself about which ingredients are potentially harmful, check the INCI list – that’s the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients list, which must be included on packaging by law in the UK – and monitor how your skin and strands react when introducing a new product into your routine.

Here, we run down some common irritants across hair and skincare categories and recommend some of the most effective ingredients that are typically safe for everyone to use…

SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER

When choosing a shampoo or conditioner, it’s important to consider the effect ingredients will have on both your hair and scalp.

You may want to avoid foaming agents called sulfates (sometimes listed at SLS or SLES) as they can strip oils and make your hair feel dry.

Also used for foaming and texture, TEA (triethanolamine) and DEA (diethanolamine) can cause scalp irritation or hormone disruption, as can parabens, a type of preservative.

While a sweet-smelling shampoo or conditioner is appealing, synthetic colours and fragrances can contain allergens or cause irritation, especially for sensitive skin types.

Silicones, which give hair that silky-soft feeling, are often found in conditioners or hair masks. They can be difficult to wash out, meaning they can build up and weigh hair down over time.

On the other hand, shampoo and conditioner ingredients that are known to be non-irritating for most people include moisturising hyaluronic acid and aloe vera; strengthening panthenol (vitamin B5), biotin and niacinamide; nourishing argan and coconut oils; and green tea extract for scalp health.

HAIR TREATMENTS

Targeted hair and scalp treatments can deliver remarkable results, but the most potent ingredients can sometimes be the most detrimental.

Found in some keratin or smoothing treatments, formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (including DMDM Hydantoin, Quaternium-15 and Diazolidinyl Urea) can cause scalp irritation and allergic reactions, and are classified as carcinogens with prolonged exposure.

Similarly, some aldehydes – found in hair straightening treatments – can be potential carcinogens, causing respiratory issues and scalp sensitivity.

Triclosan is an antibacterial agent sometimes included in anti-dandruff or antimicrobial scalp treatments. It disrupts hormones and has been linked to antibiotic resistance.

You may recognise retinyl palmitate from anti-ageing skincare. The vitamin A derivative is also used in scalp masks and can break down in sunlight, potentially forming harmful free radicals that can cause cell damage.

Hair treatment ingredients that get the thumbs up include keratin and hydrolysed wheat protein to strengthen weak strands; vitamin E  to protect against oxidative stress and environmental stressors; jojoba oil for lightweight hydration; and chamomile extract to soothe the scalp and boost glossiness.

STYLING PRODUCTS

Encompassing everything from mousses and heat protectants to gels, waxes and hair sprays, products in the styling category may contain the ingredients already listed, plus some other key components that may be harmful.

Alcohols (such as isopropyl alcohol) are commonly found in hair spray, mousse and dry shampoo. They can dry hair out, making it more prone to breakage.

Found in pomades and waxes, petrolatum (aka petroleum jelly) and mineral oil (a distillation of petrolatum) can create a barrier that prevents moisture absorption, leading to dry tresses, and they may contain carcinogenic contaminants.

A pleasantly scented form of alcohol used to fragrance styling products, linalool is also a common allergen that can cause skin irritation or sensitivity, especially in high concentrations.

As for styling product ingredients that get the expert seal of approval, look out for tea tree oil (to maintain a healthy, balanced scalp); peppermint oil to stimulate circulation and support hair growth; and aloe vera and panthenol (vitamin B5) to hydrate, smooth and combat frizz.

SKINCARE PRODUCTS

Some of the potentially harmful ingredients used in hair products are also sometimes found in skincare, including parabens, sulfates, formaldehyde, triclosan and retinyl palmitate.

On top of these, you might also want to watch out for polyethylene gycols (PEGs), petroleum-derived compounds used to thicken things like moisturisers and serums. PEGs can strip the skin’s natural moisture barrier, leading to dryness, and can become contaminated with carcinogens.

Oxybenzone is commonly found in sunscreen as it absorbs UVA and UVB rays, thereby protecting the skin from damage. However, it irritates some people’s skin, is also known to be a hormone disruptor and could increase the risk of breast cancer and endometriosis.

For a safe sunscreen that provides adequate protection without irritation, look for mineral sunblocks formulated with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

Other skin-loving ingredients recommended by dermatologists include: ceramides for repairing the skin barrier and locking in moisture; peptides for boosting the production of collagen and elastin to prevent wrinkles; and antioxidants (such as vitamins A and C) to neutralise the free radicals that cause premature ageing and brighten skin.

What’s on the list?

With thousands of beauty products to choose from and innovative new ingredients emerging all the time, it’s hard enough trying to keep up with what you should be putting on your skin and hair, let alone the elements to avoid.

By learning which ingredients might be harmful, checking INCI lists and investing in trustworthy beauty brands, you can ensure you look your best without compromising your health.

 

Scalp feeling irritated and you’re not sure why? During our relaxing Scalp Detox Treatment a salon expert will use a magnifying camera to examine your follicles and diagnose any issues before applying a soothing scalp serum. Book your appointment at Paul Edmonds London.

FURTHER READING

FURTHER READING