This is how hard water damages your hair and what to do about it
You may know London is a hard water area, but what does that really mean?
Hard water is defined as water that contains high levels of dissolved minerals, primarily calcium and magnesium, picked up as the water flows through rock. It may also contain trace amounts of metal particles such as iron and manganese due to corroded pipes.
“In London, the pipes are very old, so the water contains a lot of metals and there's a lot of calcium as well, so your hair might feel frizzy or dry,” says Marvyn Duche, senior colourist at Paul Edmonds London.
The pH level also varies according to how hard or soft water is, from 0 to 14, he explains: “Neutral is pH 7, whereas H20 in some parts of London is nine or above - recent tests showed it went up to 11, which is alkaline.”
If you get a lot of limescale residue around your taps, showerhead, kettle and other appliances, chances are you live in a hard water area. The easiest way to know for certain is to check your water supplier’s website or look for a map online.
If you’re abroad there’s one other clue to look out for, Marvyn says: “If when you shampoo your hair you don’t get as much foam as usual, that's generally an indication that the water's quite hard.”
You might think that even though you live in a hard water area it doesn’t affect your hair, but the truth is you might just be used to the dryness, dullness and breakage caused by mineral and metal particles.
“It's such a slow build up that people don't often think hard water is what’s stopping their hair looking youthful and lustrous, but as soon as they move to another place, or even move to somewhere else in London where the water is less hard they notice the impact,” Maryvn warns.
“We have a lot of clients who move from France or the US, for example, and say, ‘Now I'm living in London I just feel like my hair is not the same.’ They see the difference straight away.”
The good news is, even if you live in a very hard water area, there are ways to counteract the effects and prevent more damage.
Here, Marvyn explains everything you need to know about your hair and hard water…
WHAT DOES HARD WATER DO TO YOUR HAIR?
Hard water is detrimental to hair for two main reasons. Firstly, the high pH level causes the hair cuticle to open, and secondly, mineral and metal deposits cling to hair strands whenever your hair gets wet.
“The limescale build-up in the hair cuticle makes the hair more porous so it can feel frizzy, dull, dry or brittle,” Marvyn says. “And when the cuticle is more open it creates more friction within the hair, so even combing or brushing your hair can cause more damage straight away.”
This effect is intensified by heat styling due to a process called oxidation, in the same way the element inside a kettle gets more of a build-up of limescale than other kitchen appliances.
“Hard water affects hair colour because the hair is less shiny so the colour doesn’t look as vibrant, and also if the cuticle is more open it makes your hair more porous so the pigment can escape and the colour will fade more quickly,” Marvyn continues.
“For lighter blondes in particular, their hair might start looking dull or slightly yellow compared with how it looked when they came out of the salon because, a bit like limescale in a bathroom, it mutes the colour.”
HOW CAN YOU PREVENT AND TREAT THE EFFECTS OF HARD WATER ON HAIR?
Hard water isn’t a problem at Paul Edmonds London, the salon's incoming water pipes are fitted with with an innovative tool, and you can install something similar at home.
Marvyn explains: “Our filter uses advanced hydroelectric technology to release zinc ions into the water, which attach to the limescale and stop it from sticking to hair or the insides of the pipes - it just goes straight into the drain.”
For an at-home alternative, brands like Hello Klean, Phillips and Act+Acre sell hard water filters at a range of prices that you can attach to your showerhead, ensuring only soft water runs over your locks.
To instantly eradicate hard water nasties, be sure to include the two-step, professional-strength L’Oreal Metal Detox treatment at every appointment.
“The purpose of the Metal Detox treatment is to encapsulate the metal particles and then flush them out,” Marvyn says. “It makes your hair about 10 times shinier and the colour is restored so it's like what your hair would be like without hard water.”
Alternate the Metal Detox with the bond-building Redken SAM treatment for the ultimate in cleansing and nourishing, he advises: “SAM is great because it’s acidic so it brings the pH back to the natural phase and closes the cuticle. You will have more shine and the colour will be more true. For example, with blondes it will take away the yellowing effect.”
For counteracting hard water at home, he recommends the Kérastase Première and Iles Formula ranges.
“With Kérastase Première you pre-treat the hair before you shampoo it,” Marvyn says.
“The formula is designed to neutralise the limescale in the hair, then by shampooing you’re washing it away. There’s also Conditioner, Mask, Anti-Frizz Serum and Repairing Oil in the range to help maintain the hair and prevent further build-up.”
The salon’s scalp expert, director Matilda Marshall, points out that hard water can also create scalp issues, which require a different treatment.
“Hard water can cause scalp dryness and over-stimulation on sensitive scalps,” Matilda says. “But a hard water shampoo won’t treat your scalp, so ensure that you're maintaining your scalp treatment, for example Davines Naturaltech Purifying Gel, at the same time to keep moisture levels up.”
Hard choices
Due to its high mineral content and pH level, hard water can have a detrimental effect on hair, causing dry, dull or frizzy locks and colour that fades fast.
If you don’t want to install a shower filter, your best bet for counteracting the effects of hard water is by using the right products at home and getting regular treatments in salon to cleanse away unwanted particles.
Want to boost your hair’s shine and strength? Book a treatment at Paul Edmonds London.
