How the Paul Edmonds London team create looks that last
Our seasoned stylists are experts at crafting statement-making haircuts.
Hair is such a personal thing, and at Paul Edmonds London, we’re all about an individualised approach, but every so often, a trend comes along that everybody wants.
Certain haircuts – or celebrities – become emblematic of a season or an era, and even if they fall out of fashion, they inevitably return when they’re adopted by the next generation.
Case in point? Christy Turlington, one of the original Big Five supermodels, whose early-90s tousled short crop was trending again this year. “She had iconic hair,” says artistic director Zoe Rodgers. “Everybody always wanted what she had.”
What makes a cut truly iconic? “It's something that makes a statement about that period that transcends normal hair,” Paul says. “Suddenly, you'll have an iconic look that makes a big difference.”
Going back more than a century, the game-changing bob cut signified a huge shift in beauty norms. “It was relevant then, and it’s still relevant now because it transcends fashion trends,” Zoe says. The team use their knowledge of hair throughout the decades and their experience on film and TV sets to inform how they create flattering cuts for their clients.
Here, Paul and Zoe discuss some of the most era-defining haircuts, how they craft customised looks in the salon, and why Paul Edmonds London is known for iconic hair…
WHAT ARE SOME OF THE MOST ICONIC CUTS OF ALL TIME?
Similar to timeless garments such as the trench coat or a tuxedo jacket, iconic haircuts like the bob are eternally stylish, but they get a modern revamp every time they come back into fashion.
Mia Wasikowski - Paul was the hairdresser for the film the Double and gave Mia the iconic bob for her character
“The bob is iconic because it's lasted from the 1910s to now – it’s stood the test of time,” Zoe says. Paul explains that, unlike the blunt crops that dominated the flapper era, today’s bobs are generally more textured. “Most people want something movable so they can easily tuck it behind their ear or do different things with it. They want a little bit of movement in it.”
He cites Blonde singer Debbie Harry as a Blondie as an iconic 1980s example: “Her bob definitely wasn't kind of smooth and sleek, it was kind of rock and roll with two-tone colour. Funnily enough, I had a client this week who brought in a photo of Debbie Harry during .”
The 1990s was an incredible era for iconic hair, with Meg Ryan’s shaggy crop one of the most popular cuts of the decade, Zoe says. “The shag style which Meg Ryan had, that's now what's called the wolf cut.” And then along came the ultimate layered cut, made famous by Jennifer Aniston in Friends. “Suddenly, you had everyone coming in asking for a ‘Rachel,’ and stylists had to work out, how do you cut the Rachel haircut?”
One of the most controversial cuts ever, the mullet was a major trend in the 70s and 80s, and has made a huge resurgence in the last couple of years for men, which Zoe attributes to celebrity influence. “It started with a couple of celebrities and snowballed from there. Now practically every bloke has got a mullet.”
HOW DOES FILM AND TV STYLING INFLUENCE HAIR TRENDS?
Paul, who has worked on countless movie and TV productions throughout his career, is skilled at translating iconic cuts from different eras for the big and small screens. For example, he cut Michelle Dockery’s sharp 1920s brunette bob for her role in Downton Abbey.
“You're not trying to always make that person look their best, you're trying to create a character,” he says. “You're working with the make-up artist and the actor, because you don't want them to be unhappy with the cut, so it is collaborative.”
Recently, he worked on the hair for Rivals, the Jilly Cooper TV adaptation set in the 1980s. “One of the girls has a Madonna, she's supposed to look a bit punky, so that was a case of picking an iconic look and transposing it into production.”
HOW DOES THE PAUL EDMONDS LONDON TEAM CREATE ICONIC LOOKS IN SALON?
The Paul Edmonds London ethos is all about customising hair to suit each client, and that includes iconic haircuts too.
Starting at the consultation, Paul says, “I'll get lots of pictures out because everyone has a very different idea of what they mean.” Making sure that he and the client are on the same page about the look, they’ll talk through how the cut might suit their face shape. “You can adapt it to the individual, leave it longer or shorter to change where the emphasis is.”
Hair type is also an important consideration, Zoe says. “They might have really fine hair, so they can't really have a strong bob, or they might have a cow's lick in the fringe, so they can't have a strong fringe.”
WHAT CUTTING TECHNIQUES ARE USED FOR ICONIC CUTS?
Emma Thompson - 30 plus years of Emma's hair hasn't stopped her ever evolving looks with Paul
With decades of experience under their belts, the Paul Edmonds London team are well-versed in all the cutting techniques that are required to craft iconic cuts for a modern audience.
“You use everything from blunt cutting through to razoring,” Paul says. “Different techniques for each kind of style and hair types. Say if they want a punky look that's really choppy and spiky, you have to do a lot of texturising, whereas a bob might be a blunt cut, which might seem quite easy to do, but it's actually quite hard to do that kind of precision cutting.”
Each member of the team specialises in different techniques, and they will help you find the perfect stylist for your desired look, Paul explains. “What we've always done is empower our stylists to say, ‘Look, this is not my expertise, you'd be much better seeing someone else,’ and we do the same thing with colour.”
Historic hair
Sam Smith - Paul continued to adapt Sam's look working with them to develop a shorter grooming style
Throughout hairdressing history, iconic haircuts have served as symbols of changing tastes, with models, musicians and actors sporting styles that become huge trends.
At Paul Edmonds London, our stylists combine their expert knowledge of celebrity style with impeccable cutting skills and a bespoke approach to create iconic cuts that stand the test of time.
The perfect haircut will make you look and feel iconic. Book your next appointment at Paul Edmonds London.
