WHY A GLAZE TREATMENT IS YOUR SHORTCUT TO THE ‘GLASS HAIR’ TREND
Hot on the heels of the 'glazed doughnut' skin trend, 'glass hair' is the ultra-shiny look everyone wants right now.
Whether your locks are light or dark, straight or wavy, this trend is all about achieving glossy, mirror-like shine from root to tip.
You might think it takes a whole glam squad hours to create the kind of high-shine tresses you see on the likes of Kim Kardashian, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Emily Ratajkowski, but there's a salon shortcut that will give you glass hair in just 30 minutes.
"Hair glazes are a brilliant service for anyone who wants shine added to their hair," says creative director Julie Harper, explaining that there are two main types: clear and pigmented.
"If a client has got virgin hair with no colour on it and they want their hair to feel more shiny I'll apply a clear glaze, which can go on any length of hair."
Alternatively, pigment can be added at the same time to refresh the colour: "Brunette or blonde hair that has gone brassy, for example, can have neutralisation toners applied in a glaze appointment, or boost your natural hair colour with more oomph".
Whatever your base colour or style, a glaze can enhance the appearance of your hair and, unlike some colour treatments, it won't damage your strands.
Want to try the glass hair trend? Here, Julie talks through everything you need to know about hair glazes…
HOW DOES A HAIR GLAZE WORK?
A hair glaze is a semi-permanent acidic formula that sits on top of the hair shaft, preventing frizz and creating a shiny surface, a bit like applying nail polish during a manicure.
Putting acid on your locks may sound harsh, but in hair terms it's actually a good thing, the in salon professional treatment does require an allergy alert test to make sure that you have no sensitivity to the product when applied.
"Glazes are a lower pH, they tend to sit on the cuticle," Julie says. "If a treatment is acid-based it's a kinder and softer on the hair and ensures the cuticle lies flat giving the appearance of shine and gloss."
Clear glazes are ideal for reviving dull hair or for anyone who wants to avoid certain chemicals.
"Some of my clients don't want to colour their hair anymore," Julie says. "They might have had chemotherapy treatment or be allergic to a lot of things."
Pigmented glazes are used to deposit colour at the same time, which typically means making dark colours more vibrant or reducing brassiness on lighter shades.
Julie says: "We can really personalise it. You could be a chestnut brown and darken it two to three levels on a glaze appointment, and with blondes it's about neutralising yellow tones."
The hair glaze treatments used in salon are stronger than the at-home alternative - at home hair gloss products such as Kérastase Chroma Absolu Soin Acid Chroma Gloss - meaning the effect lasts longer and they offer a more bespoke approach to colour, ideal if you want to try a new shade before committing to permanent colour.
It's best to consult a colourist before attempting to change your shade, as there are lots of factors that can affect the end result.
SHOULD I HAVE A CLEAR OR COLOUR GLAZE?
While clear glazes can be used on any hair type or colour, Julie recommends talking to your colourist about the result you want to decide whether a pigmented glaze would be better.
"If they've got virgin hair it's mainly going to be a clear gloss, but you can also used a pigmented glaze to add more depth to your natural colour without affecting the natural pigment" she says, but for coloured hair adding toning pigment can create a stunning finished look, especially if you want to tap into current trends.
"A lot of celebs are going more golden copper or strawberry blonde recently," Julie says.
"With coppers and reds, a glaze can add a bit more vibrancy, because reds require just as much maintenance as blonde. It's perfect for brightening up the palette of hair."
The same goes for cool brown shades - either all-over colour or balayage - that have faded to a warmer hue, while a blonde glaze will refresh trendy sunset tones.
You can also "spice up" grey hair, Julie says: "You can use glazes on grey hair to make them a bit whiter, more ashy, or add violet if you want to go lilac, it's a great way to soften your grey hair without covering it, it's great for client who are embracing their grey hair."
She also recommends glazes for maintaining men's hair colour: "Some of my gents have balayage appointments and coming into summer they're adding lighter sections through the hair. Glazes are also great in between scalp bleach appointments to refresh the blonde, until you get your roots bleach in your next appointment."
HOW IS A GLAZE APPLIED?
A glaze is applied at the backwash to clean, wet hair and left for about 20 minutes to allow the formula to coat the strands and for the colour to develop if toning pigment has been added.
"The glaze is rinsed out, then I apply a conditioning mask and it's done, so it's just an extra half-hour added to a cut or blow-dry appointment," Julie explains.
If you're having a glaze for the first time you will need to have a patch test 48 hours before to check for any sensitivity or reaction to the formula.
HOW LONG WILL A GLAZE LAST?
DIY hair glosses last about 48 to 72 hours while professional salon glazes are much longer lasting, washing out gradually over about six to eight weeks or 20 washes (depending on your lifestyle and how often you shampoo your hair).
There are also ways to make the glass hair effect and colour last longer.
"If you had a colour glaze it's about using the right correcting shampoo to maintain that colour," Julie says, such as the Oway Blondeway, Davines Alchemic or Shu Umeura Colour Lustre ranges.
"But if it's for virgin hair and you want ultra-shine then I'd definitely recommend our Strengthening Acid Moisture treatment in salon, because that is about keeping the shine in the hair."
She also recommends using a product like the Oribe Balm D'or Heat Styling Shield: "If you don't use a heat protector on hair that's been coloured, it will strip the hair more because the temperature opens the cuticle more and the pigment will come out more."
Following these steps will keep your hair looking glossy for longer and prevent further damage in future.
As Julie says, a hair glaze is a fantastic way to refresh your look if you're bored with your current colour or want to try the celebrity-inspired glass hair trend.
Whether it's for a special occasion when you want to look your best, or you simply want to have healthy-looking hair on a day-to-day basis, a clear or coloured glaze will revitalise your locks and make you feel amazing.
Book an appointment with one of the colourists Paul Edmonds London and find out how a glaze can enhance your hair.