5 key questions to ask your colourist before a major colour change

Thinking about switching up your hair this season?

Maybe you want to go golden blonde for summer. Or try the burgundy balayage trend like Dua Lipa. Or go jet black a la Sydney Sweeney at the Met Gala.

In men's hair trends, 90s-inspired beachy blonde and icy platinum tones are big news right now.

If you're pondering a significant colour transformation, you should always start with a thorough consultation, particularly if you haven't been to the hairdressers in a while.

"If you haven't seen us for more than six months, definitely come in for a consultation," says creative director Julie Harper.

"We also do virtual consultations. If it's a regular client who lives outside London we're more than happy to do a Zoom call so we can see their hair and have a chat, then we always add an extra 15 minutes onto the colour appointment to go over the details again."

By asking the right questions during your consultation, you'll ensure you've got all the information you need before deciding whether to take the plunge with your new look.

Here, our colourists talk through the five essential questions to ask before a major makeover…

1. IS THIS COLOUR ACHIEVABLE?

It's always a good idea to take a few screengrabs of celebrities or social media posts showing the look you want to achieve rather than trying to describe the colour.

"As colourists, we use a lot of different terminology," says senior colourist Marvyn Duche.

"What I call copper might be different for a client. When a client says she wants ash does she actually mean ash or does she mean cream or golden blonde?"

Once you've figured out the shade you're looking for, your colourist can advise on whether this look is achievable for your hair - and, importantly, if it will suit your skin tone, eye colour and hair type.

"If a client shows me a photo I will be honest if I think that image isn't necessarily going to suit them," Julie says. "We'll always aim to find a compromise, something in between where we're both happy with it."

The condition of your hair is the next consideration, Maryvn says: "There are always cases when a certain look is not possible. For example, if the hair is damaged then it's not going to be possible straight away."

Recently, he had a client whose hair was too weak for the colour she wanted: "Instead of going for the colour straight away we did a series of treatments and made sure that her hair was more resilient and strong enough to withstand the colour process."

2. DO I NEED AN ALLERGY TEST?

Unless your colourist has used the same products on your hair before, you will generally always need an allergy test at least 48 hours before your appointment.

If you come into the salon, the colourist will place a small amount of the relevant product on your forearm or behind your ear to test whether there's any adverse skin reaction.

"We test with whatever we're going to use on the hair, such as toner, permanent or semi-permanent tint or glaze," Julie says.

"We can also send an allergy test kit out if a client has had a Zoom consultation. They come with the colouring product in a tube with really clear instructions on how to mix and apply it."

3. HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE?

There are two aspects to how long a colour transformation will take: how many sessions and how long in the chair.

"If a client has a certain expectation we need to explain to her that if she wants to arrive at this kind of colour this is going to be a journey together," Marvyn says.

"It may not be that we can get that result the first time, but in six months time with several steps we're can achieve it."

As for how long you'll be in the salon, Julie says: "For full head appointments expect to be in the salon for three to four hours. With balayage, foilage and root tapping it's going to be another hour on that appointment, and if it's a tint removal and going lighter that will be about six hours."

For men's or shorter hairstyles, grey coverage can be done in as little as 20 minutes, but a full colour service will take the same amount of time for long or short hair.

4. HOW WILL THE COLOURING PROCESS AFFECT MY HAIR?

"If a client is concerned about damage then we'll always incorporate that in our consultation," says Julie.

"We don't want to push the hair too much or we may sometimes think the hair is stronger than it is until we do an elasticity test or strand test and then it tells another story."

This is particularly crucial when using peroxide, which removes dark pigment from the hair to make it lighter.

"But most products have bond builders built in them now," Julie adds. Found in toners and treatments, these clever chemicals help to rebuild broken bonds within the hair structure to make it stronger.

Alternatively, a bond builder can be added to ensure your hair is in the same condition when you leave the salon as when you arrived.

5. HOW CAN I MAINTAIN THE COLOUR?

Your colourist can recommend the best home haircare products to keep your colour looking vibrant.

"My go-to for blondes is the Shu Uemura Ultimate Reset range," Julie says. "It's brilliant for providing protein and moisture and the mask is extremely nourishing."

Both our colourists recommend the Shu Uemura Color Lustre for any shade of coloured hair. The recently reformulated range now contains a fermented ingredient and niacinamide to seal in your colour.

"It's great for brunettes, and you've got the Davines Chocolate, Tobacco and Reds pigment ranges to help prolong the richness of the hair," Julie says.

"Heat protection is needed if you're styling your hair a lot to prevent the heat of the straighteners or tongs pushing the colour out of the hair. I love Kérastase Ciment Thermique and Shu Uemura Izumi Tonic, which is infused with rice water - it's an amazing strengthener for long hair."

Transform your tresses

A dramatic colour change can make you look and feel amazing, but there are lots of factors to consider before deciding on your new hair hue.

By having a thorough consultation with your colourist, you can find out what it will take to go from your current colour to your desired look, how it will affect your hair and how to maintain the shade once you've left the salon.

Follow our colourists' tips and you'll be armed with the info you need to make a decision about your next hair transformation.

 

To find out how to maintain your hair colour and keep it looking vibrant for longer, check out our blog post on 7 Key Ways to Stop Your Hair Colour Fading here.  Additionally, discover the innovative Shu Uemura Color Lustre range, designed to protect and enhance your hair colour with advanced fermented ingredients. We’ve got all you need to know here.

Feeling inspired? Book a colour consultation to discuss your options at Paul Edmonds London.