Return of the perm: Everything to know about 2025’s curly hair trend
Inspired by curly-haired celebrities, perms are making a massive comeback this year, with men leading the way.
Popular with famous footballers and musicians in the 1970s and 80s, perms fell out of fashion when the era of boyband ‘curtains’ and hair straighteners arrived in the 90s, but now demand for chemically-enhanced curls is on the rise once more.
Trendy gen Z guys are plumping for perms to emulate heartthrob actors such as Timothée Chalamet, Jeremy Allen White and Paul Mescal, who sport artfully tousled hair on the red carpet.
“A lot of my younger male clients who have straight hair can't achieve that look naturally,” says Zoe Rodgers, artistic director at Paul Edmonds London. “They either want a soft, natural wave or men who have already got wavy hair want it to be curlier.”
The ‘mini mullet’ is another curly-haired trend loved by stylish celebrities including Jacob Elordi and Austin Butler.
“With mullets they’re the softer, face-framing kind,” says creative director Joe Savine, while women who want perms are after “beachy soft waves. They want a nice foundation to create volume or a curly blow-dry.”
Nowadays, there’s so much versatility in terms of creating curls and waves via a chemical process, but not all hairdressers are equipped with the skills to do a perm.
“Because perms went out of fashion it was taken off the standard hairdressing curriculum for about 15 years, but now they're bringing it back,” says Zoe, who is one of the salon’s perm specialists.
Here, she explains how the perming process works, what to consider before getting a perm and how to maintain your curls…
WHAT IS A PERM?
Perm is short for ‘permanent wave’ and refers to a chemical process that creates lasting curls, but how is a perm actually done?
“First, we do a thorough consultation to talk about what look the client wants and decide which of three perm solutions to use and which size of rollers,” Zoe says.
The solution will break down the bonds within the hair to change the shape of the strand, then a neutraliser is applied which holds them in that shape. There are three different solution strengths, designed for coloured hair, natural hair and natural resistant hair, with the latter being the strongest.
“We start with a cleansing shampoo to make sure the hair is squeaky clean, then take the client back to the section and put the rollers in,” Zoe explains. “The size of the rollers determines how soft the curls will be, so the largest roller creates a very soft wave and the smallest roller will create very tight curls.”
The chosen solution is sprayed onto the hair and left on for around 20 minutes, then when the desired wave or curl level has been reached the hair is rinsed (with the roller still in place) and most of the moisture squeezed out so it’s left damp.
“The neutraliser is placed in a bowl with a sponge and you squeeze the sponge until it’s created a big bowl of foam,” Zoe continues. “You put the foam on the hair and it's actually the oxygen in the foam that neutralises the perm.”
After leaving the neutraliser on for five minutes, the rollers are taken out and the rest of the neutraliser is applied to the mid-lengths and ends for another five minutes. Finally, the hair is rinsed again and conditioned, with the whole process taking around one to two hours.
How long does a perm last? “About three months,” Zoe says, depending on the hair type. “If you've got one-length hair, it's generally more heavy so the curl won’t hold as well, but if you've got layered hair it gives a bit more volume and does last longer.”
As the hair grows out you could opt for a ‘root perm’ so the regrowth matches the permed hair, but it’s a relatively complicated process and if you’ve got a softer wave in the modern style you might not need it.
It’s important to note that your hair must be in good enough condition to get a perm because the strong chemicals used could easily cause further damage.
Can you combine a perm and colour in the same appointment? You could, as long as it’s sem-permanent colour, but you might want to wait and see the outcome of the perm because the solution might cause your hair to lift a shade lighter.
“Some people love it because it gives them a sunkissed feel, but some people don't, especially if they've already got coloured hair in good condition,” Zoe says.
“You can put a semi-permanent dye over the top to take the colour back down, but I wouldn't advise having any anything else like highlights or balayage at the same time as a perm. It’s better to wait about 48 hours.”
HOW TO MAINTAIN A PERM
You may be tempted to keep running your fingers through your chic new ‘do, but rule number one of perm maintenance is you need to let your curls settle.
“A lot of people people will keep touching their curls, but that's a big don't,” Zoe says, and it’s important to stock up on the right curl-enhacing products to keep your curls or waves looking defined and frizz-free.
“You can get away with your hair not being washed for longer because it's not as flat to the head. You can just re-wet the hair because you've still got the product on it – maybe add a little bit more, for example Kérastase Curl Manifesto Huile Sublime Repair Oil – and scrunch it to redefine the curl again and leave it to dry naturally.”
Her favourite curl product ranges are Davines Curl Control and Kérastase Curl Manifesto. “In the 80s, perms used to be quite crunchy feeling, whereas now you want it looking natural and soft,” which is what these ranges deliver, alongside defrizzing properties, because curly hair is more prone to frizz.
“Kérastase Curl Manifesto is a whole range of shampoos and conditioners, plus a gel which you can apply before drying naturally or using a diffuser. Then you've got Davines Curl Controller, which is a cream, and Iles formula also has the Curl Revive Spray, which is great to use a couple of months after the perm.”
These are Zoe’s must-haves for perfecting a perm:
Permanently cool
As long as your hair is in good condition, a perm is a great way to switch up your look and embrace a celebrity-approved face-framing mullet or effortless waves that don’t requiring tonging.
By using the right products and curl-reviving techniques, you can forgo heat styling and scrunch your way to curly perfection.
Thinking about getting a perm? Book your next appointment at Paul Edmonds London.
